Michael Douglas wears a Cartier Santos de Cartier

In 1987 Cartier relaunched the Santos as the Santos Galbée, a more ergonomically curved version of the case on the same bracelet of double screws the brand had used since the line began in 1904. That December, Oliver Stone's Wall Street reached theaters with Michael Douglas wearing one as Gordon Gekko.

Gekko is the corporate raider Bud Fox spends the film trying to impress, introduced in shirtsleeves and red-striped suspenders, on the phone, telling someone to dump a stock. His Santos Galbée is 18-karat yellow gold, with a white square dial, black Roman numerals, and the integrated screw-set bracelet. It is on his wrist for the "greed, for lack of a better word, is good" speech at the Teldar Paper shareholders' meeting, and when he tells Bud that "if you're not inside, you are outside."

The Cartier was a deliberate step away from the genre default. The 1987 power watch was a gold Rolex Day-Date; a gold Cartier Santos reads as quieter, older money.