Robert Duvall wears an unidentified watch

On a beach still smoking from his own napalm strike, Robert Duvall's Bill Kilgore crouches shirtless in a black cavalry hat, the loudest thing in a loud movie. He surfed the contested shoreline to get here and called in the strike to improve the waves, and somewhere in there he said the thing about how napalm smells in the morning, the line people who have never seen Apocalypse Now can still quote. Every piece of that costume has since been catalogued. BAMF Style runs his outfit down to the crossed-sabre hat pin and a ruby-stoned ring, and his screen-worn hat, uniform, and scarf went to the Debbie Reynolds collection, auctioned by Profiles in History in 2011.

The one thing nobody can name is the watch. Apocalypse Now is a film people identify by its watches. Martin Sheen's Captain Willard wears the Seiko 6105 that collectors now just call the Willard. Marlon Brando's Kurtz wears a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 with the bezel pried off. Mostra Store, walking through the timepieces of the movie, names those two and the watches the production matched to each role, Hamilton and Benrus for the infantry, a Glycine Airman for the pilots, and never reaches Kilgore at all. BAMF, having pinned down his ring, can only manage this for his wrist: a steel watch with a round light-colored dial on a black strap.

In the clearest frame of him, the watch is right there on his left wrist, round and pale on a dark strap, and even then you cannot read it. Everyone remembers Willard's Seiko and Kurtz's de-bezeled Rolex. The most flamboyant man in the picture got the one watch nobody can place.