Peter Haber wears a Sjöö Sandström

In a sunlit study at the Vanger estate, an older man holds out a small framed portrait of a girl, and Peter Haber, playing Martin Vanger in a pale blue V-neck sweater, takes it in. This is the family-history scene from Niels Arden Oplev's The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (2009), the Swedish adaptation of Stieg Larsson's novel, and Haber's Vanger is the outwardly respectable head of the family's industrial empire concealing a far darker legacy. His hands hang at his sides in the shadow of the room, the sweater cuffs over his wrists. Whatever is on them never reaches the camera.

That absence is the whole problem. A Swedish watch on a Swedish industrialist is a tidy idea, and the name floated for it is Sjoo Sandstrom, the high-end Stockholm maker that handcrafts its movements on Ringvagen, but nothing on screen confirms it. The watch most firmly tied to this story belongs to the other adaptation anyway, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra that Daniel Craig wears as Mikael Blomkvist in the 2011 American remake, a placement Omega announced itself. On Haber, in the Swedish original, there is a name, a hunch, and a sleeve, and the sleeve wins.