Jon Hamm wears an Omega Seamaster De Ville

The Mad Men finale leaves Don Draper at a spiritual retreat on the California coast, sitting through a group session in a plaid work shirt with his hands folded and his eyes down. He has walked out on the agency and his second marriage by now, and the name he answers to he took in Korea, off a dead man. His wrist is bare. For most of seven seasons it was not. Jon Hamm plays Draper, the Sterling Cooper creative director whose final scene has him meditating at the cliff's edge before the show cuts to the 1971 Coca-Cola ad it implies he dreamed up.

The watch that wrist used to carry was an Omega Seamaster De Ville, reference 166.020, a dress piece from the mid-1960s. Its case is about 34mm, its movement an automatic Omega caliber 562 or 563, its dial black with a date window. It gets its clearest look in the fifth season, when Draper checks it in a diner while he waits for a woman, and it stays with him into the sixth and seventh. The Seamaster was an actual 1960s watch, sourced for the show through a vintage dealer rather than lent by Omega for the airtime.

The Seamaster is the watch people now tie to Mad Men, but it was never the one the show licensed. That deal went to Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose Reverso had been on the cast since the first season and which built a Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to Mad Men in 2012, twenty-five numbered pieces with the Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce logo cut into the caseback. The licensed watch is the footnote. The vintage Seamaster that Draper actually wore is the one collectors hunt, and the trade now calls the 166.020 the Mad Men Omega.